Shoe welting with a core and support for the same



March 12, 1957 w. c. VIZARD 2,784w504 SHOE waurmc WITH A coma AND SUPPORT FOR THE SAME Filed Feb 5. 1954 INVENTOR. CM'ZcZ d United States Patent SHOE WELTIN G WITH A CORE AND SUPPORT FOR THE SAME William C. Vizard, Brocktou, Mass., assignor to Barbour Welting (Company, Brocktolr, M23553, a corporation of Massachusetts Application February 5 1954, Serial No. 408,566

'3 Claims. (Cl. 36*78) This invention relates to welting for shoes and more particularly to welting of the type having an upstanding bead in its top surface between its longitudinal edges which is particularly adapted to lie closely against the shoe upper when incorporated in a shoe.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide a beaded shoe welting wherein provision is made for supporting and maintaining the head in its upstanding position with relation to the marginal portions of the welt.

A further object is to provide a shoe welting which may be easily manufactured and which may be produced from a grade of leather which has heretofore been impossible to utilize in welting manufacture.

A still further object is to provide a shoe welting wherein the welt bead is of a substantial width and is formed integrally with the leather fillet from which the welt is formed and which enables it to hold its shape and position when incorporated into a shoe.

With these general objects in view and such others as may hereinafter appear, the invention consists in the novel beaded welting hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims at the end of this specification.

In the drawings illustrating different modifications of the present invention:

Figs. 1-4 are perspectives illustrating the successive steps in the cutting of a grain surfaced welt strip preparatory to the formation of the finished beaded welt shown in Fig. 8;

Figs. 5, 6 and 7 are perspectives illustrating the successive steps in folding the welt strip cut in accordance with the disclosures of Figs. l-4 in order to form a rounded but relatively wide bead;

Fig. 8 is a perspective illustrating the completed beaded welting having a rounded but relatively wide bead.

In general in producing the embodiments of the invention illustrated in Fig. 8, the beaded welting is produced from a rectangular fillet of leather having a grain upper surface.

As illustrated in Fig. 8, the completed welting shown therein embodies a welt extension, an inseam flange and a rounded bead of substantial width providing a relatively wide fiat upper surface to minimize iawl deflection when sewing through the head. This type of bead is, in accordance with the invention, formed by cutting operations to form a grain leather cover flap having formed integrally therewith a rectangular core member and a wedge, the latter being folded under the inseam side of the core to prevent the head from tipping inwardly toward the upper when the welt is embodied in the shoe.

Referring 110W to the drawings and particularly to Figs. 1 to 8, 10 represents a substantially rectangular leather fillet, preferably wide and thick, with its upper surface comprising the grain surface 12. In accordance with the preferred method of making the present beaded welting an incision is made in the flesh surface 13 thereof commencing at point 14 on a line spaced inwardly from and parallel to one marginal edge 15 of the fillet 10 and 2,784,504 Patented Mar. 12, 1 957 continuing upwardly to point 16 just below the grain surface 12, thence turning at right angles toward the second marginal edge 17 and running substantially parallel to said grain surface 12, terminating at point 18 substantially midway between the marginal edges '15, 17. This incision forms a bead forming cover flap, indicated in general at 29, having a depending core member 22 formed integral with said marginal edge 15 of a thickness equal to the thickness of said fillet 10. The next step in the operation comprises the removal of a thin layer 24 from the grain surface of the fillet. As best shown in Fig. 3, the removal of the layer 24 forms .a longitudinal shoulder 26 adjacent marginal edge 15. Referring to Figs. 4 and 5, in particular, an incision is made commencing at 25 along the base of said shoulder 26, extending inwardly in a horizontal plane through the grain surface 12 and then curling downwardly, terminating at 27 in the flesh fibers of the fillet adjacent marginal edge 15. This incision forms a flap 30 integral with and hinged to the upper portion of said edge 15. In order to form the present beaded welting shown in Fig. 8, the bead. cover flap 2th including the core member 22 and the flap 30 is first folded upwardly to the position indicated in Fig. 6, and then the upper portion thereof including flap 30 and core member 22 is folded downwardly at substantially right angles to the intermediate portion 32 of said bead cover flap 20 such that side portion 34 of the core member is in contact with the underside 36 of said intermediate portion 32, the flap 30 being folded outwardly to the position shown in Fig. 7.

As best shown in Figs. 6 and 7, the flap 30 has a free lip portion 40 hinged adjacent the core member 22 and a triangular or wedge shaped portion 42..

The core member and bead supporting flap are again folded downwardly so that the side 44 of the core member 22 is placed in contact with the underside of intermediate portion 32, and with the triangular portion 42 wedged under the side 46 of the core member. The grained surfaced lip portion 40 is cemented or otherwise secured to the flesh face 48 of fillet 10 and with its edge flush with the marginal edge 50 forming a grained surfaced inseam flange 52, an upstanding bead 54 supported and maintained in such upstanding position by tri angular portion 42 and a welt extension 56. During the folding operations heretofore described, the contacting portions of the bead flap, core member and bead supporting flap will be coated with a suitable cement and molded under pressure into the positions shown in Fig. 8 during the usual molding operation. A suitable stitching groove 53 may be provided in the flesh surface of the fillet 10 at any time during the forming operation in any of the usual methods employed in welting manufacture.

The present bead 54 is supported and maintained in a position substantially at an angle of with relation to the surface of the welt extension 56 by the triangular or wedge shaped portion 42 of flap 30 when the grained surface lip portion 40 of the flap is cemented upon the flesh face 48 with its free edge flush vwith marginal edge 52. The present core member 22 is formed in the manner described to be substantially square with three sides thereof disposed at right angles to each other and which when folded, as described and illustrated, under the bead covering portion flap 30 forms an upstanding rounded bead having a wide top surface which will resist wear and which will remain in close fitting contact with the upper of .a shoe into which the present welting is incorporated. The relatively broad rounded top surface of the bead minimizes the liability of awl deflection when it is desired to stitch through the head. The exposed surfaces of the welt extension inseam flange and head are of grain leather and capable of being highly polished to enhance their appearance when the welt is incorporated in a shoe. /T he grain surfaced inseam flange offers maximum protection against tearing when the welt is stitched into the shoe.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed 1. A beaded shoe welt having an inseam flange along one marginal edge, a welt extension along the other marginal edge and a bead cover flap integral with the welt extension and folded to form a bead upstanding from the surface of the Welt, said cover flap having a rectangular bead core member and a wedge-shaped core supporting member, both being integral with the cover flap, said Wedge-shaped core supporting member being tucked under the inseam side of the core for disposing the bead at an angle not exceeding 90 with respect to the surface of the welt extension.

2. A beaded shoe welt having an inseam flange along one marginal edge, a welt extension along the other marginal edge and a grain surfaced bead flap integral with the welt extension and folded to form a bead, said flap enclosing a core member and a wedge-shaped core supporting member, said wedge-shaped core supporting member being tucked under the inseam side of the core Y 4 member to maintain the bead upstanding trom the surface of the welt extension at an angle not exceeding 90 with respect to the welt extension.

3. A beaded shoe welting having an inseam flange along one marginal edge, a welt extension along the other marginal edge, an upstanding bead intermediate said inseam flange and welt extension, said head comprising a grain cover flap, an integral, substantially rectangular cor-e member in its undersurface, an inseam cover flap integral with said grain cover fiap and constituting a cover for the inseam flange, and a support for said core member on the underside of said inseam cover flap tucked under the core member to maintain the head in an upstanding position.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,666,444 Fallon Apr, 17, 1928 1,828,728 Arnold et a1 Oct. 28, 1931 2,299,263 Vizard Oct. 20, 1942 2,477,532 White July 26, 1949 

